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Old 04-05-2018, 09:20 PM
swaghauler swaghauler is offline
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As some of you already know, my backround is completely different (even for the V2.2 timeline) with Division Cuba coming from Russia explicitly to help the Mexican government (which is now a narco-puppet state). This gives Mexico modernized T55Ms with reactive armor, the Shorta systems dischargers (12 total), thermal imaging, laser rangers, and the computerized Volna fire control. They were supported by Division Cuba's Modernized (and equally well-equipped) T72Ms.
The 40th reequipped from surplus stocks of Marine tanks. At this time in history, the Marines had switched to using the M1 and there were a few hundred M60A3s with thermal imaging and reactive armor sitting in the depots as a result. These are what the remaining National Guard units (whose crews and M1 tanks were used to replace battlefield losses) and newly forming divisions are drawing out. In addition, Cadillac Gauge had an order placed by the Royal Thai Army in 1997 for 85 Stingrays. So in 1998, Texas seizes around 100 Stingrays that were set for export either to fulfill the Royal Thai Army's order or as "technology demonstrators" to various governments.
This is how I explain the Second US-Mexican War. The T55Ms and T72Ms are an equal match for the older US equipment that they faced essentially resulting in a case of "mutually assured destruction" (just like in Europe).

One other thing I'd like to address is the debate on ammo as a "destructive device." As you guys know, I have some knowledge here, especially since I began participating in D-Day Conneaut with their tank battle and all the Artillery that shows up. EACH ROUND of ammo in a casing larger than .50 (there are different rules for black powder rounds) is indeed a "destructive device" and subject to FORM 1 BATF rules (this was a BIG pain in the ass for owners of 12 gauge Streetsweeper shotguns when "Clinton" declared them "Destructive Devices" just before the 94 Assault Weapons Ban). While the $200 Tax Stamp is not that big a deal, the FILING is (or rather WAS). You must have WRITTEN acknowledgment from local LE of the request and then submit it to the BATF. During the 90's there were also limits on the number of Form 1 filings a single person/legal entity could make at once. The time to get a Form 1 approval hovered around ONE YEAR from start to finish. This is what would limit ammo count.
Both Explosive ammo AND Armor Piercing ammo was FORBIDDEN without the express written consent of the BATF. This was only given to manufacturers or testing facilities in the case of Large Caliber "Destructive Devices." Also, please note that a destructive device was a round of ammo OR ANY COMPONENT THAT COULD BE USED TO MAKE ONE! Because of these rules, most owners of "destructive devices" using a cartridge only had a few. I would think that 2D6 Shells would be appropriate after the Exchange. Also, note that "Armor Piercing" is strangely defined by the BAFT. It is based on construction MATERIAL and includes Tungsten, DU, and very hard (AR600+) Tool Steels. Thus, older hardened steel rounds that were "AP" back in WW2 may NOT QUALIFY today.

Making Ammo:

As you guys know, I'm a "Weapon's Enthusiast" in every sense of the word. "ball" and "canister" rounds are easy to make and AP rounds can be machined from tool steel or tungsten (if you can find either after The Exchange).

High Explosive Rounds:

HE is much trickier. Making Comp-B, ANFO, or Plastique isn't hard for anyone with a Chemistry Degree, The Anarchist's Cookbook, or the US Army's Improvised Munitions Handbook, but you will need a DEMO KIT (with DETONATORS) for a PROPER LCG Round. Unless you are going with ANFO and a Fuse Cord (the type of fuse that burns and is often seen sticking out of Dynamite in most movies) that you light just before firing, you are going to need either a Pressure Detonator or a Primer Detonator (most commonly equipped with a "pull ring") to detonate the above Comp-B or Plastique. They will NOT detonate if set on fire. Pressure detonators can be salvaged from Land Mines but this opens up ANOTHER "can of worms" (and hopefully ONLY in the "figurative" sense).

HEAT Rounds:

The quickest way to make a HEAT round is to get one of those big (and cool) Copper funnels like they use in Breweries and Wineries. I personally would only use a pressure detonator with this round. One way to make the detonator less sensitive is to put a waxed cotton wad (which will soften under the heat of firing) between the detonator's trigger and pad before removing the safety screw. This would greatly increase the pressure needed to detonate it. I would then make an "Investment Casting using Mild Steel with the Copper funnel (properly plugged with wax to keep the "negative space" inside it) forming the nose and body front. For those who don't know, Investment Casting (also known as the lost wax process) requires you to build a mold taking into account the general shape and any "negative (ie open) Space" the cast object needs. I would Slightly recess the tip of the funnel inside the nose of the projectile to protect the installed pressure detonator with a nub of mild steel. This nub will deform and allow the detonator to properly impact against the target's surface for detonation (and formation of the molten jet). Once the Casting is cool, you polish it with either a grinder (this guy had better be a Master grinder) or using a Lathe (for a precision polish). I would then fill the copper funnel's negative space with Comp-B and install the detonator. Now you have a HEAT round for the Apocalypse. Of course, it is a MUCH more detailed procedure but I'm not comfortable going into details on an open forum.

The Primer Detonator:

This is a mechanical detonator often detonated by a pull ring which ignites a pyrotechnic delay fuse to the actual detonator. You must drill a hole through the BACK of the round and insert this detonator through the back with additional pyrotechnic fuse pushed into it PAST the pull ring. The fuse is ignited by the powder in the round igniting and burns for a fixed period before the detonation of the explosive. You had better have your range right. You'll also have to insert a steel "plug" into the round's nose to help build "explosive pressure" so the superheated jet can form. I'd weld it in.

The poor man's "fuse;"

You just drill a hole in the base of the round and use a wire to insert a lightable fuse cord with a SPECIFIC BURN RATE. This requires the substitution of COMP-B with either ANFO or Powdered Explosives (Cordite or Black Powder). The fuse is ignited by the shell's powder charge and WILL EXPLODE after a fixed "burn time"/"time in flight" so make sure your Ranging is accurate. Don't forget to plug the round's nose after you pour the powder in!

Finding Brass after The Exchange:

Sherman ammo (and 57mm Howitzer ammo) was often "demilled" and either whole rounds (sans explosive) or Brass Casings sold as curios. There were also many "training rounds" featuring mild steel shells, brass casings WITHOUT primer pockets, and filled with sand for proper weight that were used in "dry fire training" (aka "crew drills"). These pop up all the time and some are even converted to "destructive devices" to satisfy the demand from reenactors. The only thing stopping them from becoming actual ammo is the Legal Repercussions for doing so. After the Exchange, this will disappear. I'd rate both 75mm and 57mm Casings as RARE. You will find them in Museums, VFWs, Rotaries, Surplus Stores, and Gunshops. Both Training Rounds AND "Demilled" Casings would require some skill in either TIG welding or Machining to become functional. I'd chance a "demilled" Case (because I can TIG fairly well) but pass on Machining the Primer Pocket of a Casing (because this exceeds MY Skillset). Unfortunately not that many rounds will be available and you will use SIGNIFICANT resources to make them.
 


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